Thursday, 6 August 2009

Green Tea with Millionaire's Shortbread

Location: Beach Walk Café, Arnside, Cumbria
Date: 6 August 2009



Notes: Slightly off the tourist track (but still not hard to find) this small cafe-in-a-shack at the foot of a path up to the Youth Hostel does have a good view of the estuary, despite the dodgy photo here. We thought just having a cuppa was a little stingy so we ordered a piece of this locally-made millionaire shortbread with our tea. But it was rather huge so we had to wrap it up and smuggle it out. If you ever find yourself in Arnside, this place is a much better place for lunch than the eateries on the prom.

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

Booths Blend English Tea and a Raisin Whirl

Location: Booths supermarket, Ulverston, Cumbria
Date: 5 August 2009
Details: Booths special blend English tea with skimmed milk; raisin whirl pastry


Notes: Booths supermarkets are reassuringly traditional - I wish we had them in the Midlands but sadly their branches don't go further south than Preston. Not been to a Booths? It's like a friendly version of Waitrose, specialising in local produce and good quality brands. Nice. Best bit is their scoop-it-yourself frozen fruit station. Brilliant.
My mother and I shared this bog-standard British tea in bog-standard ceramic cups, having purchased these plastic-looking raisin whirls in the shop. A mediocre afternoon tea resuced by the tip-top company.

Hot Chocolate and Eccles Cake

Location: Arnside Pier, Cumbria
Date: August 2009
Details: Skimmed milk hot chocolate with Eccles cake, both from The Bakehouse, Arnside Promenade


Notes: The photo shows my mother's hands displaying the Eccles cake and take-out cuppa in front of the Arnside viaduct. (Please imagine a steam train chugging over the viaduct.)

This was a delicious traditional Eccles cake - huge (much bigger than my palm), stuffed full with currants and flaky pastry with sugary bits on top. Not so much a snack as an entire meal.

The hot chocolate was also a treat. Or did it all taste so good because it was eaten outside..?

Tuesday, 28 July 2009

Hot chocolate and an absence of chocolate cake

Location: Cafe Leoni, Wood Street, Stratford-upon-Avon
Website: http://www.loveyourdarkside.com/
Date: 24 July 2009
Details: Skinny hot chocolate with a (free) Belgian chocolate

Notes: A new cafe to try! The frontage proclaims their subtitle: 'Love your dark side'. Sounds promising: conjures up images of dark chocolate, exoticism and kinkiness. Instead, we got run-of-the-mill old-fashioned Belgian chocolates, chaotic service and wipe-clean squashy furniture. What a let-down.

We arrived on a weekday lunchtime. You'd be forgiven for thinking you were in Caffé Nero - the fridge cabinets near the door and the stock in them look almost identical to Nero. We scanned the cabinets for chocolate cake. Nothing. A fruity slice thing, some calorific dry-looking muffins, the odd cookie. This is a chocolate cafe, where are the chocolate confections? Cake, cheesecake, pastries, we're not fussy, anything chocolate-y will do. Surely that's not too high an expectation? Still, we were promised a "free chocolate with every drink" so at least we'd get a fix.

Crest-fallen at the lack of cake, we ordered our drinks, impressed by the nifty Argos-style ordering system which appears a screen high on the wall. Very clever. But too high for the counter operators to read it - they had to crane their heads back like that cartoon bloke in the Reach toothpaste adverts ('flip-top-head'). It's a Health and Safety disaster waiting to happen. Unlike Argos, sadly the computer system doesn't tell you, "Skinny mocha, to your collection point please".

The novelty of the screen distracts the customer from the lack of space by the counter. My companion and I are slight and fitted in OK but anyone of a more comfortable build, carrying bags or trailing children might suffer a bout of claustrophobic just ordering in Leoni. I had to be careful not to knock stuff of the shelves behind me with my bag so excited flailing must be kept to a minimum.

Despite being the only people in the queue, one of our two drinks was forgotten. Our drinks were slung onto a tray. Where was the 'free' chocolate, as advertised? "Oh, we've run out." So what's that in your fully-stocked chocolate cabinet to my left? "Oh. Yeah..." Eventually, we were given a chocolate roll thing in a petit-four case. And what sort of chocolate is this, we enquired politely. "Oh, err, I don't know". The operator consulted two further members of staff and no-one knew. Perhaps look at the box from which you have removed it, perchance the name is upon it? Hopefully the staff will eventually get over the brain-taxing complexity of coping with customers and serving cuppas and manage to regain their intelligence.

The bizarre squidgy wipe-clean furniture was unpleasant to sit in (the upstairs benches are too low for the tables - I tried a bench and was 2ft below my petite companion; I gave up and we sat side by side instead). Children were bouncing and climbing like they were in a soft-play area. How lovely for them! How vexing for the rest of us! 'Love your dark side' suggests something adult about the cafe so doesn't seem appropriate to have toddlers everywhere.

We saw several people going back to the counter to complain that their cups were not full enough of actual drink, just full of froth. Hidden under our froth, we were astonished to discover that our drinks were actually rather good. Despite the skinny milk, our chocolate and mocha were rich and creamy with the right amount of sweetness. I would normally be suspicious that they'd snuck in semi milk instead but I saw it go straight from the red-topped bottle into the steamer container.

I tentatively poked at the free chocolate with a wooden stirrer stick and sliced it in half. We peered at it, still unsure what it might contain. A tiny mouthful confirmed it was incredibly rich, very heavy on the dark cocoa and the kind of chocolate that is best eaten in tiny nibbles to avoid claggy-mouthed death-by-chocolate. Cake goes far better with a hot drink. Cuppasandcakes not cuppasandchocolate. Maybe Cafe Leoni could offer a 'free chocolate fondant fancy' instead?

Finally, a question: With society's current trend towards sourcing local, why would you open a business selling Belgian choclate?! Warwickshire has many wonderful artisan chocolatiers and Cadbury is on our doorstep. So much for 'eat local'.
Good luck Cafe Leoni but something tells me you won't last long if you don't revise your business plan.

Update: December 2009 - this Cafe Leoni has closed down. (I am pulling a suitably smug told-ya-so face.)

Thursday, 16 July 2009

Banoffee pie and green tea

Location: The Vintner, Sheep Street, Stratford-upon-Avon
Website: www.the-vintner.co.uk/
Date: 15 July 2009
Details: Green tea with a slice of banoffee pie and a scoop of vanilla ice-cream


Notes: I didn't think I could afford to eat indulgently at The Vintner - a well-known Stratford restaurant which usually caters for well-off couples on dates and upper-class middle-aged types. However, for the price of one meaty main course, one can enjoy a starter (or light veggie dish) and a pud - much better value than a lump of dead animal! Good to see a traditional place like The Vintner offering green tea too.

This gloriously-presented item in the image above is their banoffee pie. Please note the attention to detail: chocolate sauce drizzle, chocolate shavings with just a couple straying onto the rim. Very neat. And what a huge slice, certainly enough for two if you're on a date. Luckily I'm not so I managed the whole lot without any help (and then galantly stepped in to assist Vaneeta finish her pud too). The pie lived up to its presentation - just the right ratio of pastry:toffee:creamy topping. It should however include more banana - I counted two small circular slices. Two?! There's no need to be stingy on the banana. It did take me over half an hour to eat but every mouthful was enjoyed - and worth the painful £5 charge.

Disappointingly, the pie just comes on its own - no option to have cream or ice-cream so I ordered one scoop, which bizarrely came separately in a ramekin. The ice-cream comes from Bennett's Farm, the huge farm-shop on the road from Birmingham to Stratford so one can believe it came from happy Brummie cows - marvellous. And maybe the steaks on the neighbours' tables came from the happy dairy cows' friends? Hmm. On that note, may I recommend you try the chickpea and spinach gratin..?

Sunday, 12 July 2009

Birthday cake with jasmine green tea

Location: At home in Stratford-upon-Avon
Date: 12 July 2009
Details: Slice of birthday cake with strawberries, with jasmine green tea



Notes:

My dad's birthday is 11 July - what to give the man who has everything he needs and plenty he doesn't? A homemade birthday cake! This particular cuppa and cake moment was enjoyed the day after his birthday - adding strawberries turns the leftover cake slice into something between a cream tea and a dessert.

The cake itself is a simple two-layer Victoria sponge filled with buttercream and blackberry jam (made by my mother) and decorated with fondant icing.

Why the clock decoration? Dad is something of a whizz at mending and restoring Atmos clocks - a very expensive near-perpetual motion precision clock which works by using changes in atmospheric pressure to expand/contract bellows and drive the mechanism. They're made by Jaegar Le Coulture in Switzerland and only a handful of people in the UK are able to mend them correctly.

An added bonus of the clock design decoration is that our family method of measuring out slices of circular food (cake, pie, cheeses etc) is to state how many minutes you'd like. Is there a normal way to do this? What does everyone else do? Degrees is too complicated - minutes is easy, and even easier when the foodstuff actually has minutes marked on it!

Despite being stuffed with a celebratory dinner, Dad and guests on his birthday evening still managed to scoff a slice of the cake with a cuppa to round off their evening. I swiped two leftover slices and enjoyed it with the fresh fruit the following day.

Saturday, 27 June 2009

Coffee and Horchata with pastry twists

Location: Cafe at Valencia railway station, Spain
Date: 27 June 2009
Details: Coffee, horchata and pastry twists


Notes: Firstly, please admire the inlaid marble penguin in the table-top. Guapo, si? This is a logo for a brand of Spanish beer.

The coffee smelled good but was entirely consumed by The Lion.

Horchata is far more interesting - a local speciality which all guidebooks advise the traveller to sample - it is indeed delicious. The drink made from ground rice and nuts flavoured with vanilla - sounds like a pudding but it's very tasty and probably to be consumed in moderation due to the calorific nut content.

The crunchy pastry twists are from a packet I found in a Spar supermarket. Made with wholemeal flour, the packet proclaimed the health benefits of their product. Hmm. Yes, you might be consuming some dietary fibre but they still contained the usual butter and sugar! Still, dunked in the coffee and horchata, whether indulgent or healthy, they tasted great.


Thursday, 25 June 2009

Hot Chocolate, Fartons and Hello Kitty Biscuits

Location: Valencia
Date: 25 June 2009
Details: Hot chocolate with fartons, and a novelty Hello Kitty biscuit


Notes: Fartons. Spanish for "dry iced bun stick" and nothing about that name for an English-speaker to snigger at, noooo not at all.

The delicious Spanish hot chocolate is an entirely different beast to the English stuff made with powder and hot milk. This is like a liquid pudding, possibly one of the many failed 'chocolate fon-dont' puds which line the path to Masterchef victory. Would be delicious with a nice English shortbread...

Sadly the Hello Kitty biscuit wasn't a quality product. Hastily acquired in the nearby El Corte Ingles supermarket in the Aqua shopping centre, it was over-processed, dry and boring. But The Lion enjoyed the enclosed miniature Kitty plastic toy.

This ice-cream parlour served hot drinks with a little packet of these Smarties-like sweets.

Wednesday, 17 June 2009

English Breakfast tea and Victoria Sponge

Location: Havilands Café, Meer Street, Stratford-upon-Avon

Date: 17 June 2009
Description: English Breakfast tea and Victoria Sponge cake

Notes: Michelle and I decided to check out the new cafe attached to the Havilands bakery/sandwich store on Meer Street - all sounded promising since their cakes are superb (their window is a delight and includes elaborate gingerbread houses at Christmas-time).

Things got off to a bad start as we arrived on a drizzly lunch-break and were visually assaulted by lime green cheapo chairs outside the front. Yuk. Still, inside it's less Ikea and more minimalist tea-room with black table-tops and simple white china. I was distracted by a book on a shelf next to our table about hosting 'Tea Parties' and had to be reminded to look at the menu.

The menu is simple and caters squarely for the Stratford tourist at lunchtime - sandwiches or a variation on sandwiches. Much like the shop next door. We chose hot drinks and a slab of baked stodge. The Vic sponge (pictured) looks promising but was incredibly dense in texture and stingy on the icing - it had possibly been sat in the cabinet for a few days. And I had to ask for a fork to eat it with. Hmm. Michelle's pan au chocolat was unexceptional - just your average pastry, and so average she can't recall whether it was served hot or not. The tea was fine though and I requested that they offer skimmed milk in future. Michelle's coffee was OK but rather small and not the quality offered by specialist coffee shops.

Verdict: Great for a take-out cake or sarnie in a hurry but not a great place to indulge in a cuppa and cake.

Wednesday, 6 May 2009

Breakfast Tea and Sultana Scone

Location: Crabtree & Evelyn Café, Stratford-upon-Avon
Date: 6 May 2009
Description: English Breakfast tea and a sultana scone with butter and cherry jam.

Notes: A decent cup of of tea which would have been improved if served with skimmed milk (semi tastes too strong for my liking). The scone was very good though - it came heated without me having to ask and didn't crumble too much. The cherry jam was nice but possibly blackcurrant not cherry. Unless cherries have become tiny and purple.

Please note the attention to detail displayed in this photograph - every avenue of twee-ness is covered in this cafe: Wedgewood-style C&E branded crockery, imitation dog-rose, even a floral paper napkin. Disappointingly, the jam container was polystyrene - it should be glass at the very least, which would be more appealing on the table and also cut down on the café's waste.

Michelle and I were at least three decades younger than the rest of clientele in this traditional Stratford café but don't let that put you off. It's also a great hiding place if you don't want to get spotted by colleagues. So I'm told.

Cappuccino and Sticky Ginger Cake

Location: Crabtree & Evelyn Cafe, Stratford-upon-Avon
Date: 6 May 2009
Description: Milky cappuccino with a big cube of ginger cake.

Notes: This cafe is 'award-winning' so Michelle was a little disappointed with her cappuccino and not-very-sticky Sticky Ginger Cake. As a twee 'olde worlde tea shoppe' C&E is probably not used to serving coffee though. Especially since it's so close to Costa and Starbucks.
The ginger cake tasted a bit like Jamaica Ginger Cake but without the heft, the clag and the suspiciously dark colour. Since it was little dry, it could have been spruced up with a drizzle - perhaps some syrup from a stem ginger jar. Or perhaps been served with a dollop of ginger ice-cream.
Still, it came served on a doily. A doily!

Tuesday, 14 April 2009

Fish and chips at the seaside!

Disclaimer: This entry shouldn't be in a blog about cuppas and cakes but it was such an outstanding meal, it deserves coverage on the WWW.

Location: The Pearson's Arms, Whitstable, Kent
Date: 12 April 2009
Details: Battered pollock with double-fried chips, mushy peas and salad.

Notes: It's true, fish and chips tastes better at the seaside.

Duska and I decided to take the bus from Canterbury to Whitstable. Felipe and Guiliano fancied a spontaneous roadtrip so they accompanied us. We did attempt a walk along the beach but the prospect of fish and chips was too alluring. We had just missed the end of lunch service at this pub and the evening menu did not include fish and chips. What?? Duska explained our disappointment to the waitress who pleaded our case to the chef... and in the end, all four of us had fish and chips, hooray!

The fish was pollock instead of the traditional cod - isn't cod a protected species now? Whatever it was, it was fried in a thick fluffy batter. The chips were twice-fried - once in a medium-temp oil to cook them through, and then again in very hot oil to crisp up the outsides. We tucked into our eco-friendly white-fish + chips with gusto. The photo makes it look quite small but I had to donate one chunk of my fish to Felipe and half the chips to a salivating chap on the next table. And we couldn't even contemplate a pudding (which might have justified the entry on this blog). It was all washed down with Guiliano's excellent choice of white wine.

Whitstable is famous for oysters but try the traditional fish and chips instead - much more delicious!

Sunday, 12 April 2009

Polumesec and Red Wine

Location: Duska's apartment, Canterbury
Date: 11 April 2009
Description: 'Polumesec' with red wine

Notes:
Duska decided to make some little cakes which her family make in Serbia. The name 'polumesec' means 'half-moon' which refers to the shape when cut out with a glass - see image below.
They're made with lots of ground nuts and sugar, and turn out more like sweets or a sort of biscuit than a cake. They firmed up overnight in the fridge but we still scoffed plenty on Saturday evening with a bottle of red wine.

Cutting out the half-moon shape:
Sharing the polumesec cakes:

Monday, 9 March 2009

Toffee Cupcakes and Ginger Hot Chocolate

Location: McKechnie's Cafe, Stratford-upon-Avon
Date: Monday 9 March 2009
Details: Hot Milk and Hot Chocolate, both with Gingerbread Syrup, and Toffee Cupcakes

Notes:
Celebratory hot drinks and cupcakes for Kiz's birthday. These cupcakes look incredibly professional - and that's because they are. Kiz bought them at a bakery in Tewkesbury to share with her students and the staff at Foxford School where she is directing a musical. (Not McKechnie's produce I'm afraid. Naughty.)
As one of Kiz's 30-Things-To-Do-For-Her-Thirtieth, she's listed "Have Ginger Hot Chocolate with Sooze at McKechnie's" so here we are ticking it off the list.
Lovely hot milk for me with the same 'Gingerbread' syrup, and the cupcakes were perfect - sickly sweet fat layer of icing and a fluffy toffee-flavoured cake.

Wednesday, 4 March 2009

Brownies and Ice-Cream with a Pot of Tea

Location: Häagen-Daaz Cafe, Leicester Square, London
www.haagen-dazs.co.uk/cafes/menu.htm
Date: Tuesday 3 March 2009
Details: Chocolate Macadamia Brownie with scoops of Dulce de Leche and Vanilla Caramel Brownie ice-creams with a pot of English Breakfast tea

Notes: My brother and I had such a disappointing Indian meal at 'Masala Zone' (opposite the Royal Opera House) that we had to erase it by having an outrageously sugary dessert somewhere else. After a foray into a ChinaTown 'Hello Kitty' emporium (where John bought two strange-but-cute plush dogs), we ended up in Leicester Square at this cafe which was buzzing and full of tourists.

We both ordered tea. John had a 'Cookie Crunch' - a tall sundae glass which was crammed with Cookies&Cream ice-cream, cookie pieces, hot fudge sauce and chocolate sprinkles. J plunged his spoon in and it oozed obscenely over the side. Yum. I had a Brownie Extreme - two (!) chocolate and macadamia nut brownies with 2 scoops of ice-cream - I swapped the set options to my favourites: Vanilla Caramel Brownie and Dulce de Leche.

I couldn't manage two brownies - good job too, because the plate was probably my entire calorie allowance for one day, a total sugar overload and entirely nutrition-free. Wahey! And tastes even better on someone else's expenses!

Sunday, 22 February 2009

Chocolate Cylinder with Apple Pie Ice Cream

Location: Fat Cat Bistro, Solihull
Date: 21 February 2009
Details: Chocolate Cylinder dessert with Apple Pie Ice-cream, with a cup of hot water


Notes:

Amanda and I splashed out on lunch at this posh Solihull bistro. I'd just closed a dormant account at NatWest bank so we used the closing balance of £22.40 towards our lunch. Not that it went very far towards it... The lunch deal was rather confusing because it offered a cheap price for two courses from a handful of things on their regular menu. Various lumps of meat were included but not a salad, which is surely cheaper to produce... Weird.

The cylinder thing was very odd - very heavy, like a hefty dark chocolate mouse. There were two circles of gritty solid chocolate at each end. I wasn't sure what I was supposed to do with it. Probably the best thing would be to chop it into thin rounds and share it around.

The ice-cream was delicious - and tasted like apple pie. Very clever. I only managed to eat half of the chocolate log-thing but the ice-cream was hoovered up quickly, despite the weird slate plate which was scratchy under-spoon. Not good.

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

Afternoon Tea at Burj Al Arab Hotel

Location: Burj Al Arab, Dubai
Date: 20 January 2009
Details: Jasmine Green Tea, sandwiches, desserts, patisserie.

Notes:
My friend Clare's parents had bought her 'Tea for Two' at the Burj as a Christmas present so she generously took me along. The security was very tight - we had to be checked in at the gate by guards before even getting over the moat...

The tea began with a glass of fizz (fruit juice for Clare) and a bowl of fruit salad. We were then presented with this Burj-shaped stand containing our food:
Top two tiers: mini sandwiches. We chose the vegetarian option which involved the creative use of mushrooms, roasted veg and salad. The breads were all different types from ordinary white to mini ciabatta. My favourite was the tasty brown light bread.
Green tier: Miniature crème caramels with shortbread and some unidentifiable fruit cakes (bit dry). The crumbly shortbread goes beautifully with the smooth crème caramel.
Bottom tier: Dinky patisseries


We took over 3 hours to enjoyably chomp our way through this delicious 'meal'. The view was spectacular, out across the coast and the whole city. Not for sufferers of vertigo! The staff were fab throughout, friendly and quick, and enthusiastic about helping most of the customers who wanted to talk photos. I'm not sure how this hotel claims to be a "7-star" but maybe the unusually good service is worth an extra star. A memorable experience, nothing like a stuffy Afternoon Tea at an English hotel.

Tuesday, 20 January 2009

Recipe: Easy butter shortbread with chocolate chunks

Adapted from Mary Berry's 'Simple Cakes' book in attempt to copy the delicious Marks & Spencer chocolate chunk shortbread cookies…

Recipe: Easy butter shortbread with chocolate chunks

Ingredients
8 oz (225g) plain flour
4 oz (100g) caster sugar
8 oz (225g) butter, at room temperature, cut into small chunks
4 oz (100g) semolina
Optional:
2 oz (50g) chocolate chunks/drops
1 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla essence
+ an additional 1 oz (25g) caster sugar, for dusting

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 160°C / Gas Mark 3. Line a baking tray with parchment.
  2. Mix the flour, sugar and semolina in a large bowl (with the chocolate chunks and salt if using). Then add the butter (and vanilla essence if using) and mix it into the dry ingredients, using your hands to bring the mixture together to form a crumbly dough.
  3. Tip the dough into the tray and press it down to a 1 cm thickness with the back of a spoon. Ensure the mixture is spread in a thick even layer. Sprinkle the top with the additional caster sugar.
  4. Bake for 30-40 minutes until pale golden. Check it after 20 minutes to make sure it doesn't go too brown. Allow to cool in the tray for 5 minutes.
  5. Cut the shortbread into squares. Lift them out and cool completely on a wire rack.

Notes

  • Butter or better quality margarine both work. Butter spreads (Clover, Flora Buttery etc) work the best - a good flavour and easy to mix in. Butter is more solid than marg so it results in more robust biscuits but they can seem a bit too heavy.
  • If you don't have semolina, use cornflour or just more plain flour. I've tried it with both coarse and fine semolina and both work fine. The biscuits are slightly crunchier with the coarse semolina.
  • The salt and vanilla essence are added to boost the flavour but can be omitted.
  • Cadbury's Chocolate Chunks work very well in this shortbread - Morrison's sell them in the 'Home Baking' aisle.
  • If the mixture doesn't fill the baking sheet, press it down as directed and square off the end.
  • Alternatively you can form the mixture into a stickier dough by adding milk or water, and then roll out and cut into shapes (see image showing the dough cut into shortbread rounds).
  • The biscuits last for a week or so kept in an airtight tin.

Monday, 19 January 2009

Chai and Homemade Chocolate Chunk Shortbread

Location: Maple Tourist Home, Ernakulam, Kochi, India
Date: 18 January 2009
Details: Chai and Homemade Chocolate Chunk Shortbread

Notes: Chai bought as a 'take-out' from the Aryaas Restaurant next door to the Maple hostel. The bowl/saucer is placed over the little metal cup to keep it warm and prevent spills.
The shortbread was made in England before going to India and it's a particularly special piece because The Lion had managed not to scoff it, despite looking at it every day for two weeks.

Saturday, 17 January 2009

Chai and Plain Dosa

Location: Kovalam, Kerala, India
Date: 13 January 2009
Details: Chai and Plain Dosa

Notes: Not strictly a cuppa and cake, this is elevenses Kerala-style. The 'dosa' is the pancake, it's a 'plain dosa' because it doesn't contain a lump of potato curry like a 'masala dosa' would. The three little dishes contain: tomato sambar, a vegetable curry and a coconut chutney. Delicious!
Cost: 15Rs (approx 22p)

Monday, 12 January 2009

Coffee and Apple Crumble

Location: The German Bakery, Kovalam, Kerala, India
Date: 12 January 2009
Details: Coffee and apple crumble

Notes:
The Lion was desperate to enjoy the apple crumble he fondly remembered last time he visited the German Bakery in this seaside town many years ago. The Bakery itself had gone upmarket and lost its original simple charm. The crumble itself was OK - The Lion pretty much inhaled it before I could get chance to take this photo (see hand in the photo, mid-scoff) - but it was overpriced like everything else in this café.

Chai and Indian Almond Croissant

Location: Taxi stand, Kovalam, Kerala, India
Date: 12 January 2009
Details: Chai with an Indian pastry

Notes:
This chai wallah served a fantastic shot of chai for the grand sum of 5Rs - less than 10p. His stall was close to the taxi stand in Kovalam so he was busy all day from 8am until early evening. Watching the chai being prepared is great street-theatre. The milk is heated with spices (cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, star anise, peppercorns, cloves) and then the hot tea is strained into it. Then the wallah pours it from above his head into the tiny glasses. Aerating it like this supposedly brings out the flavours, and it certainly makes it more aromatic.

The pastry was a kind of Indian almond croissant. Again, only 5Rs. The wallah told us it was called a "baps" or something... Imagine a Peshwari naan morphed into a croissant. Delicious. Nick would scoff four in a row if I wasn't watching him.